PHYSICAL INSPECTION

The first thing we always do when we are setting up a guitar is what we call a physical inspection. Basically what we are doing is checking all over the guitar for and defects like cracks chips or dents make sure that there is good light wherever you are doing this inspection.

Finish:

Check the finish of the instrument for any cracks, dents, scratches, or chips. Inspect all the seams. (A seam is defined as where two pieces of wood are joined) Wherever there is a seam, it is possible for the finish to crack.

Finish cracks are most common in the area around the neck and body joint, anywhere a screw or anchor is and the most stress-full areas like the back of the headstock. If a crack is detected it is best to have it repaired early before it continues to grow. Most small cracks are easy to repair but when they get bigger it is more difficult.

Hardware:

Inspect all the plating on the instrument for scratch's, chips, unfinished spots and discoloration. Make sure that all the hardware is functioning properly. This includes machine heads, bridge and toplock. Again as I stated many times before this is a great time to tighten all the hardware screws on the machine heads, machine head nuts, Top lock, Neck bolts and any bridge bolts. I always like to use a oil on any exposed parts like a non-plated screw head or anywhere that can rust.

Standard Setup

Next I always talk about actually adjusting the instrument to meet the specifications for playability. Following these procedures step by step will assure that the instrument will perform at its best. As always a guitar is a personal thing, I never try to tell a person how they should set their guitar just the basic rules that make a guitar play better.

Before adjusting any instrument be sure that it is tuned to pitch otherwise you are not working on a true guitar setup.

Neck alignment:

What we call neck alignment is the neck and body is set correctly. This will allow equal distance on either side the fretboard and the strings should run evenly from the nut to the bridge from side to side. This is usually common on bolt on neck guitars set-in neck

To check for this first, with the guitar sitting straight in front of you check the string alignment from side to side. The strings should have an equal distance from the ends of the frets to each the low string and the high string. If the strings are closer to one edge, then the neck probably shifted and needs to be adjusted. To do this loosen the neck bolts one turn and move the neck side to side until the neck is centered. Tighten the bolts.

Neck Straightness.

This adjustment is critical to the playability of the instrument. It involves adjusting the truss rod inside the neck to assure that the neck has the proper amount of relief.

RELIEF: means that the neck is almost straight but has just a little warp in the middle of the neck so that they strings can pass over the next fret with out buzzing. The proper amount of relief can vary from guitar to guitar depending on the actual straightness of the neck.

There are three conditions that normally occur, Warp, Over-bow and Twist.

The first two can usually be adjusted with the truss rod. However a twisted neck is difficult to adjust and may need further attention.

WARP: A warped neck means that the tension on the truss rod is not enough to counteract the string tension resulting in the middle of the neck to dip. The result is higher action in the middle of the neck and false intonation on the middle frets. This type of problem can be corrected by tightening the truss rod.

OVERBOW: An over-bowed neck means that the tension of the truss rod is too great, causing the middle of the neck to raise. This will cause fret buzz usually on the first 5 frets. This problem can be corrected by loosening the truss rod.

TWIST: A twisted neck is a neck that has a combination of warp and overbow. The condition of the neck can usually not be corrected by adjusting the truss rod.

How to check neck straightness.

This Procedure of checking the neck for straightness is called "sighting the neck" Follow these steps to check the neck.

STEP-1) Rest the guitar body of the instrument on the table. Raise the headstock of the instrument to eye level. Support the weight of the instrument with your hand at the neck joint/heel area. Steady the neck and headstock with your other hand.

STEP-2) Look down both sides of the neck, one side at a time with one eye. Look at the condition of the neck. What you are looking for is relief.

STEP-3) if necessary adjust the neck to assure the proper amount of relief.

If the neck is over-bowed loosen the truss rod. If the neck is warped tighten the truss rod. If adjusting the neck does not give the desired amount of relief then the guitar will need to be repaired by a professional.

ELECTRONIC CHECKING.

Check the electronics to make sure that everything works and that there is sound generated from the instrument. Turn all the knobs and listen for the changes also check any switches and output jacks.

This is a good time to tighten all the nuts and screws such as the Jack, Pots and switches. To tighten the pots you will need to remove the volume knobs and then use a wrench to tighten the nut. This is very important because if the pot is loose and turns the wire could break off.

NUT HEIGHT:

BEFORE ADJUSTING THE NUT HEIGHT BE SURE THAT THE TRUSS ROD IS ADJUSTED.

Factory standard for average nut height is .4mm to .6mm clearance at the first fret. To check the standard, use a gauge that is the correct thickness desired. I start with a .5mm gauge and place it between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the string. The string should just touch the gauge and not be too high or too low. If the nut height needs adjusting follow these procedures.

Locking Nut:

If the guitar has a locking nut you should remove the two locking bolts from the back of the neck. Loosen the strings and remove the top lock. (Hint: If you drop the tremolo down and insert a shim under the bridge the string will be slack enough to adjust the nut height.)

To get the proper height add or remove the shims, If the nut is as low as it can get but still you feel it is too high, either the area of wood under the nut needs to be filed or the bottom of the nut can be ground down using a belt sander.

Nut Height Adjustment on Standard Nut Models.

Guitars and basses that are equipped with standard nuts should be filed using the proper file sizes. Be careful not too make the nut too low. Low nuts must either be replaced, shimmed or repaired using glue and powder in the low slot.

To make an individual nut adjustment carefully file the slot down until the string is at the actual height desired. I use a gauge in front of the nut that is a little higher then the fret just to make sure that the nut does not become too low.

Adjusting the Tremolo

Guitars with locking tremolo systems.

To adjust the tremolo unit to sit parallel to the surface of the guitar follow these steps.

STEP-1) Tune the Guitar to pitch.

STEP-2) Hold the guitar in playing position. Look at the back of the tremolo plate to see if it is parallel to the surface

STEP-3) if the tremolo is not sitting properly, place the guitar face down and remove the tremolo cavity plate cover. Tighten or loosen the tremolo claw hooks screws to raise or lower the tremolo system.

STEP-4:) After the tremolo has been adjusted, tune the guitar back to pitch and replace the tremolo cavity plate.

Setting the action.

Action is defined as the distance between the fret and the bottom of the string usually around the 12th to 14th fret. Some people prefer low action so they can play fast and others like a higher action for string bending. This is always personal preference so set the action to what is comfortable to the player.

On locking guitar tremolo systems the string action is set using the two studs on either side of the bridge to raise or lower the strings action. Some bridges have internal stud locks that lock the stud in place if this is the case like with many Ibanez guitars you will need to insert a small Allan wrench inside the stud and loosen the screw before making the adjustment.

On non-locking tremolos, bridges and bass bridges use the Allan head screws in the individual saddles. Fretboard radius and string radius are defined as the actual roundness of the fretboard. What we do is take a distance say 240mm measure from a center in a straight line from 0 to 240mm and then make a circle, The radius is actually a piece of this circle. The strings bridge radius must follow the fretboard radius otherwise poor playability and buzzing can occur. To assure that this is correct check each string at the same fret and make sure that the string falls within the setup area on the gauge. This will assure that he strings follow the fretboard radius.

Stretch the Strings.

To assure that the strings are installed properly stretch the strings by slightly pulling on each string , this will help keep the guitar in tune. Also if the strings are not tight in the saddles or at the tuners this will pull them in place.

Inspection for fretbuzz.

Fret buzz is defined as a note that is not ringing clearly this is almost always caused by the string hitting the next fret. Once the guitar is setup properly you will need to check for fret buzz. To do this play each fret and each string.

To adjust out fretbuzz.

If the neck buzzes in a certain area it could be that the truss rod needs a little adjusting. Low action or bad strings could also cause it. If adjusting the neck, action or replacing a string does not alleviate the problem than it should be looked at by a repair professional.

Set the Pickup Height.

To check the height of the pickup fret the guitar at the last fret and using a scale on top of the pickup check the clearance between the string and the highest point of the pickup. This clearance on the pickups should be Approx. 2.5mm to start and then set it while playing to get the maximum output that you are looking for. The closer the pickup is to the strings the more output, but also because the pickup is magnetic and the strings are also magnetic this pickup can pull too much on the string and cause poor intonation. Be careful of this.

Intonation.

Intonation is defined as how correct the notes play on the frets. A scale length is divided in two and the twelfth fret or octave falls at this location. For an example a 25.5 "scale is divided in two and the twelfth fret should be located a 12.75". Now the length of the string at the bridge needs to be adjusted back or forth to set the intonation because different string gauges react different to the scale. The intonation should be set at the factory when the guitar was produced and there should be no need to adjust. However sometimes when you change string gauge or if the saddles move, the intonation may be out.

To Adjust intonation:

First tune the open string and then check the note at the 12th fret. The two should be the same on a tuner. If the note is flat the saddle is too far back and needs to be adjusted forward. If the note is sharp then the saddle is too far forward and needs to be moved back.